JT's Turbo Clubman
Turbo Mini Forums

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

I'd get it worked, if the heat treatment doesn't limit things too much. I was chatting to one of the racers at brands hatch spinning his 16v to something silly using a worked 6581.

What do you think would be worth doing?

Wedging, crossdrilling?
I'm definitely getting it balanced with all the rotating assembly

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

I'd say so, as long as whoever is doing the work can get through the hard layer, Carl should be able to confirm how doable it is.

Thanks
I'll send him a message later

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

When do you guys prep the block/box/head etc for paint?
Before any machining work is done?
Once it's built up and all bolted together?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Well i tend to do it early on as when the castings come out of the acid dip tank all the cast surfaces are nice and clean and oil free. If your not having it dipped it might not matter too much really.

Some people like to assemble the thing and paint the whole lot but this is an arse if its the kind of engine you expect to be working on in the future. I only do that if its a recon type engine thats going to be fit and forget.

The crank is a slightly tough question (pun intended!)

If im right the 6581 cranks we just normal cranks that were nitrided to produce a hard skin? (although i always thought you could only nitride En40B so that may be folk law). If you go grinding, wedging etc your going to loose your hard skin so that says to me get a normal crank to use instead and get it tuftrided it afterwards to put the skin back on. Other people will tell you the hard skin is of no benefit anyway and is just for wear resistance so it wouldnt matter either way but personally i think the tougher skin will give the thing more fatigue strength so is worth it.

As for the mods wedging is a no brainer, its got to be an improvement over the standard design. As is back drilling the journals in my book too but id say the cost of that gives less return for your money. Cross drilling is not something i usually bother with, its dubious if it works at all..

Then people will tell you its all pointless on a turbo motor as you wont rev it high enough to break a crank anyway. I guess that comes down to how much money you want to spend again.

Thanks slater.
Ive looked into modified cranks and I've convinced myself I want one lol. It's got to help with acceleration.
I've got the modified rods and flywheel aswell.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Where did you buy the air filter?

On 4th Dec, 2014 JT said:
Well I haven't updated this for while so here it goes...

Med mate

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

So the plan has changed slightly

I've got a engine that's had the work done to it already. I've just got to change a few bits...

Anyway I need to change the oil pump, as the one with the engine is star drive and my cam is slot. No biggy as I have two brand new ones on the parts shelf...




What one is better suited do you think?

Ones from minispares and tge other from swiftune

Thanks
Josh

Edited by JT on 8th Oct, 2015.

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

As you can see there both very different!

Opinions on which is best to use would be greatly appreciated

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...id=581351&fr=50

Pedro Silva

http://miniciados.blogspot.pt/

So going by that thread am I right in thinking that I want to use the pump with the most meat either side of the spindle?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Yes :)

Pedro Silva

http://miniciados.blogspot.pt/

Thanks Pedro

I'll measure them at the weekend and post my results :)

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

I've fitted the swiftune pump as it had more meat between the ports.

Spent this afternoon timing in my avonbar phase 2 cam. I thought it's recommend to time it in at 110 degrees which is what I've done, but since read to time it in at 108 degrees. I'm going to be using 1.3 roller rockers. What are your guys thoughts on having it timed in at 110 instead of 108?

Should I knock it back to 108?


Thanks
Josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

its 108 on avonbar website. That's what I did mine to.

Bugger. Oh well its all set up still.

Would it make a difference as the chain I'm using has been used before?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

The rule of thumb used to be time the cam -2 deg with a new chain as thats roughly what is will stretch by once settled in.

Ok thanks guys.
Does anyone know how much dwell this cam has?

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985

Thought I'd update this...





Got some bling lol














That's how it sits now.
Next to do is mask it up, rub it down, and paint it! Fun fun fun :)

Cheers
Josh

My build thread..

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=542985