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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Pre engaged starter solenoid position modification

Brocky

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Katy TEXAS

Alight chaps,

Have done a search but nothing coming up, so any info would be much appreciated,

The standard pre engaged starter has the solenoid mounted at the front / 9 o'clock position when viewed from the front end of the engine ( pulley end )

So here's the question

in order to make more room between the front panel and the starter,

I am sure I have seen some where a standard one with the solenoid rotated to either the 12 or 6 o'clock position ?

Does anyone know what's involved to do this ? If not I will try and figure it out, just want to know what's involved / needed before I pull it apart...

Thanks for the help

Blocky

BTW - I took my buddy VTEC Pete out for a spin this weekend, and even though I am running her in, he gave it a name, the "Brocket"...cause I'm a brocket maaannn, nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah....

Build thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=7483

Katy Mini Owners Club Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=505552

Let's make sure you embarrass at least one VTEC MINI today !

https://www.facebook.com/groups/17557298589...096464253807802


theoneeyedlizard

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The Boom Boom speaker Police!

Essex

Should be pretty clear from the pics. Here you go...



Edited by theoneeyedlizard on 3rd Jan, 2014.

In the 13's at last!.. Just


Brocky

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Katy TEXAS

Thanks

So to confirm that moved the solenoid to around 10-11 o ' clock?

Looks more in the top pick and less in the bottom?

Edited by Brocky on 3rd Jan, 2014.

BTW - I took my buddy VTEC Pete out for a spin this weekend, and even though I am running her in, he gave it a name, the "Brocket"...cause I'm a brocket maaannn, nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah....

Build thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=7483

Katy Mini Owners Club Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=505552

Let's make sure you embarrass at least one VTEC MINI today !

https://www.facebook.com/groups/17557298589...096464253807802


Carlzilla

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Quarry Bonk

other option maybe to convert to inertia? A lot more work I know, but there would be no solenoid in the way, and you can place the remote solenoid wherever you please with some minor wiring modifications. Heres where I placed mine when I was rejigging stuff around when I first cut my front end off.

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


jamestar

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Devon

You can also get the high torque starter motors where the solenoid is on the top if your looking for more room!


theoneeyedlizard

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The Boom Boom speaker Police!

Essex

How much room do you need? It's a clubby!

I reckon it's around 10-11

In the 13's at last!.. Just


matty

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Turbo Love Palace Fool

Aylesbury

I've just finished modifying my new transfer housing to rotate the starter like my old one. Easiest thing to do is weld a lug on the housing.

I get a pic later.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Sprocket

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Preston On The Brook

There are two types of 'standard' pre engaged starters. There is the one that was used on the Metro with the solenoid mounted at 9 o'clock, and the one used on the Mini with the solenoid mounted more like 10 or 11 o'clock

As for the inertia starter, changing to one of those just to save a little space is not as clever as it would first appear.

I thoroughly recommend the high torque starters. Fits every requirement

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Tupers

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On 3rd Jan, 2014 Sprocket said:


I thoroughly recommend the high torque starters. Fits every requirement


What he said.

*tongue*


jonny f

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Dorking

Where was yours from tupers?


Tupers

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It's a Mini Spares one Jonny.


matty

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Aylesbury

Pic of my transfer housing, pre drilling.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Fusion-Fabri..._homepage_panel

www.fusionfabs.co.uk



1/4mile in 13.2sec @ 111 terminal on 15psi


Brocky

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Katy TEXAS

Thanks for all the help guys, really good info

so basically it's best to do the rotation mod if you start with the mini pre engaged not the metro one I have.... Other wise there is not much benefit? But definitely something to think about

I looked at the high torque ones on MEDs website, so will have to make my mind up, I do have an interim start as well. But they just look heavy

Also there is scope for me to tilt the rad forward at the top as it is an FG clubby front as some one pointed out, does any one see any issues with 5-10 degrees? Maybe even 15

BTW - I took my buddy VTEC Pete out for a spin this weekend, and even though I am running her in, he gave it a name, the "Brocket"...cause I'm a brocket maaannn, nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah....

Build thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=7483

Katy Mini Owners Club Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=505552

Let's make sure you embarrass at least one VTEC MINI today !

https://www.facebook.com/groups/17557298589...096464253807802


Rod S

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Formally Retired

Rural Suffolk

Colin's (Sprocket's) description is spot on.

I tried the Metro type first - they are dead common over here and the proper Mini ones are quite hard to find at a sensible price - and it wouldn't fit with my full width front mounted radiator.

However, in my case, the Mini one fits without needing the additional modification others have described and pictured. I just had to be careful with the angle the main power cable bolts onto the solenoid and improved its insulation a lot (it's permanent live so will blow a hole in your rad if the engine moves forward too close and arcs) but I managed 25mm clearance.

It all depends on where the radiator is mounted - you ask about angling it forward, but mine is vertical. I have a one piece wrap around tubular brace bar which runs across the front of the subframe and my radiator is mounted on that. My radiator may be a bit thinner than yours (from your other pictures) but there is still plenty of room - I even have the electric fan in front of the radiator and it all fits inside an FG Clubman front.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


robert

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uranus

with mine ,and the thick manly mk1 metro rad , I trimmed away the fins of the rad adjacent to the solenoid ,then put another remote solenoid in line ,so the power cable near the rad was only live on cranking .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


tadge44

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Buckinghamshire

Nice move Robert !

I thought that to change from inertia to pre-engaged it was necessary to change the ring gear ?.


Carlzilla

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Quarry Bonk

It is, but I already had that stuff and I didn't need the space, was just a thought

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


Brocky

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Katy TEXAS

Hi Rod

Thank for info

On my mk2 metro rad I did the same,




Only thing is that it has to go quite low and close to the front valance due to trying to get the inter cooler in at the top of the grill for good direct flow.

Below new rad sitting old lower mounts tilted forward slightly as was touching solenoid when vertical



The new rad is a bit taller so will drop it as much as poss but may need a little tilt to give me 15mm from the soilenoid, note I have tucked the main power cable, and renewed / upgrade all my engine tie bar bushes

One thing with the rad being taller the fan can go higher up hence more room

Will post up some more pics when I have made my new lower bottom brackets which will be further forward and lower

Should be good just need to mess about with it I think

Cheers

Brocky





On 4th Jan, 2014 Rod S said:
Colin's (Sprocket's) description is spot on.

I tried the Metro type first - they are dead common over here and the proper Mini ones are quite hard to find at a sensible price - and it wouldn't fit with my full width front mounted radiator.

However, in my case, the Mini one fits without needing the additional modification others have described and pictured. I just had to be careful with the angle the main power cable bolts onto the solenoid and improved its insulation a lot (it's permanent live so will blow a hole in your rad if the engine moves forward too close and arcs) but I managed 25mm clearance.

It all depends on where the radiator is mounted - you ask about angling it forward, but mine is vertical. I have a one piece wrap around tubular brace bar which runs across the front of the subframe and my radiator is mounted on that. My radiator may be a bit thinner than yours (from your other pictures) but there is still plenty of room - I even have the electric fan in front of the radiator and it all fits inside an FG Clubman front.

Edited by Brocky on 4th Jan, 2014.

BTW - I took my buddy VTEC Pete out for a spin this weekend, and even though I am running her in, he gave it a name, the "Brocket"...cause I'm a brocket maaannn, nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah....

Build thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=7483

Katy Mini Owners Club Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=505552

Let's make sure you embarrass at least one VTEC MINI today !

https://www.facebook.com/groups/17557298589...096464253807802

Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Pre engaged starter solenoid position modification
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