Page:
Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Pre A+ 1330 engine. Will be turbo'd.

jonny f

User Avatar

2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking

Hi guys.

I have had a search around and just wanted to ask again as i could not find to much information. Sorry if i missed a good thread!

I have been offered the following engine.

1330 engine pre A+
+060 pistons
kent 286 cam
11stud cooper head
ARP bolt kit
New duplex timing chain
New oil pump
New Alden race dizzi
Rod change straight cut gear box with straight cut drop gears
3.44 diff

With a change of pistons/cam and some head work is there anything else I should worry about going for a pre A+?

I have a megajolt setup (i know the dizzy differs), a gt17 and a mirage mani.

I read about the hole above the center main but I doubt this will cause me any issues aiming for around 130-150bhp not to high revving.

EDIT:have now purchased to turbo.

Edited by jonny f on 3rd Feb, 2014.


minimole23

4309 Posts
Member #: 1321
Post Whore

Wiltshire

Depends on the price.

But fundamentally there is no reason why you shouldn't turbo a pre a plus engine.

On 7th Oct, 2010 5haneJ said:
yeah I gave it all a good prodding


jonny f

User Avatar

2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking

It is a very good price :). A few pictures.










Joe C

User Avatar

12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

you could get those pistons dished out a bit.

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



jonny f

User Avatar

2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking

On 18th Jan, 2014 Joe C said:
you could get those pistons dished out a bit.


So they would be suitable for use with a turbo?

If so I don't think the head has had to much work I might be able to get enough cc just in the head.


jonny f

User Avatar

2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking

Its sitting in the shed now, so no going back!


Joe C

User Avatar

12307 Posts
Member #: 565
Carlos Fandango

Burnham-on-Crouch, Essex

Nick on here has used the 21253's dished out to 11cc

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=276646

On 28th Aug, 2011 Kean said:
At the risk of being sigged...

Joe, do you have a photo of your tool?



http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...9064&lastpost=1

https://joe1977.imgbb.com/



Vegard

User Avatar

7765 Posts
Member #: 74
I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway




On 18th Jan, 2014 Joe C said:
you could get those pistons dished out a bit.


I'd find out which pistons they were first....

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



jonny f

User Avatar

2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking

I will try to avoid taking material out of the pistons. I hope there is enough room in the head.

Started stripping it down today added a few pictures in my build. I did think about not stripping the bottom end. I was right to though with a hand tight gear box layshaft nut.

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...id=516766&fr=25

Edited by jonny f on 26th Jan, 2014.


jonny f

User Avatar

2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking




On 25th Jan, 2014 Joe C said:
Nick on here has used the 21253's dished out to 11cc

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=276646


They are the 21253's which is a bonus!

I think i will have to get them dished a bit more.

332.5cc cylinder
3.8cc bk450
8.4cc dish piston
0.8cc ring land (is this right on 1330?)
28cc head
Piston flush with deck

I can get a ratio of 9.1:1 by putting a 28cc head on top, which is not to bad. Probably around 10psi max. Thats a bit fairy though!

If i took the pistons out to 10cc that would be better, at 8.8:1 or 11cc at 8.62:1


jonny f

User Avatar

2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking

I'm going to keep all my questions in here on this engine. Some bits i've found during strip down...

It seems to me its more A+ than pre. The gearbox is A+ with a 16mm shaft and 3 bolts. Good news.
EDIT: Scrap that, wrong shaft *blush* its 14mm Pre A gearset in an A+ box with A+ drops.





A+ casing.



Innocenti/1300gt rods, light and strong.



Although i have a slight issue here... Would it be acceptable to smooth the high areas, or is it scrap?



The laygear is stamped as follows, 22a1737 on minispares website it should be 22a1737'A' for A plus but after a bit of digging i found this information...

"The laygear has the pre A plus number stamped into it but is in fact an early a plus laygear...apparently when the first a plus boxes came out they had a bit of a mix and match going on...So it needs the pre a plus shaft but works with the a plus gears!! how confused am I now!!"

I'm confused to, layshaft seems ok for wear so just new bearings needed.



I think i need a floating bush.

Its quite floppy on the crank and has been ground away a bit.

Edited by jonny f on 10th Feb, 2014.


jonny f

User Avatar

2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking

On a second look, after checking bearings, laygear itself looks worn out :(.


jonny f

User Avatar

2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking

Stress relieved the box.



Blasted it to.



What do you think of this synchro? Its 1st so i was think just use it.

Baulk ring definitely needs changing.

Edit: its 4th... so better change it. Not re built a box before, steep learning curve!

Edited by jonny f on 12th Feb, 2014.


welshdan

2096 Posts
Member #: 1111
Post Whore

s wales

Take the baulk ring off and inspect the cone. Had one of these wear in an early close ratio a plus gearbox in the past. I had to change for new as it crunched into fourth. A new baulk ring helped for about 100 miles!


Brett

User Avatar

9502 Posts
Member #: 1023
Post Whore

Doncaster, South Yorkshire




On 5th Feb, 2014 jonny f said:

Although i have a slight issue here... Would it be acceptable to smooth the high areas, or is it scrap?



imo mate that needs sorting,

Yes i moved to the darkside *happy*

Instagram @jdm_brett


jonny f

User Avatar

2096 Posts
Member #: 9894
Post Whore

Dorking



On 11th Feb, 2014 Brett said:



On 5th Feb, 2014 jonny f said:

Although i have a slight issue here... Would it be acceptable to smooth the high areas, or is it scrap?


imo mate that needs sorting,


Cheers Brett

You mean sorting with a new rod? Or think i could get away with just taking back the high areas. I think i know the answer, just being tight!

On 10th Feb, 2014 welshdan said:
Take the baulk ring off and inspect the cone. Had one of these wear in an early close ratio a plus gearbox in the past. I had to change for new as it crunched into fourth. A new baulk ring helped for about 100 miles!


The cone looks ok for wear to be honest Dan, its the synchro i'm worried about the most. Although being 1st i don't see it being to much of an issue.

Edit: as editted above, its 4th and i'm stupid... lol. Best change it.

Edited by jonny f on 12th Feb, 2014.

Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Pre A+ 1330 engine. Will be turbo'd.
Users viewing this thread: none. (+ 1 Guests)  
To post messages you must be logged in!
Username: Password:
Page: