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Graham T

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Good afternoon people.
I’m hoping someone here a can point me in the right direction or at least give me some ideas on a “small” oil pressure issue I have.
The engine is the 1312cc A series Turbo.

Some background:
After my engine was rebuilt, I had a hard job getting pressure up initially, but after a fair amount of priming it got there.
The engine ran fine and iirc I was getting around 60 – 70psi at 3000 – 4000 rpm, with ~25 psi at tick over.
The engine then sat for the best part of a year without being started, just occasionally turned over on the starter.
The next time I went to start it up, I had the same issues with no oil pressure. A lot of priming later I got oil pressure again.
After that point I was starting the engine on a regular basis and I never seemed to have and issue.
Eventually we got the car to a position for a few test runs.
I did 4 short runs of about 35 metres just to get some logging data out of the MS2. Oil pressure was still at around 20 – 25 PSI at tick over when I shut the engine down.
The following week I went to start it up for another test run and I had no oil pressure again.
I went through my normal routine of disconnecting the oil cooler pipes, pouring oil into the pipe from the oil pump and turning the engine backwards, but to no avail. No pressure…

Basically, the oil appeared to be getting sucked back in by the pump when the engine is turned backwards, then when the engine is turned in the correct direction, oil gets pushed out, but only as much (or possibly less) than was put in. (ie – it’s not getting sucked up from the sump)
Also, I noted that if I poured the oil in the pipe and left it for a few minutes, the level in the pipe drops.
Options I thought at the time, which I think others also said on another oil pressure related thread were either a goosed pump, issues with the o’ ring/ gasket on the oil pickup, pressure relief shuttle stuck, oil pump bolts bottoming out.

I’ve just started working on this issue now and stripped the engine down to get to the pump.
The pump looks fine, the oil pump gasket looked fine.
Once I had the pump out, I tested the oil pressure relief valve by blocking the oil pump output port in the block with a plastic bung and pouring oil into a pipe connected to the block were the pipe to the oil filter would normally go (where I have been priming the pump from). No drop in level over a 30 minute period.
I check the length of the oil pump bolts before installing and they are definitely not bottoming out, so I put a new pump and gasket on (removing the bung first!) and repeated the above test.
I put about 300ml of 15w 40 down the pipe and turned the engine backwards to try to prime the pump before testing, which I thought would be enough to purge any air.

Within 8 minutes all the oil was gone from the pipe.



I know it’s not much oil from the black line on the pipe to the coupling, but I thought oil should not be able to run back through the pump?


I do not really want to strip out the whole engine to check the oil pickup if it’s not necessary and equally, putting the engine back together at this point seems a waste of time if the oil should not be able to go back through the pump.
Has anyone got any ideas? Advice?
Thanks

Graham

Edited by Graham T on 26th Apr, 2015.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


stevieturbo

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Pump may not be bolted to block properly, or the pickup pipe is leaking or broken.

9.85 @ 145mph
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speed didn't kill me, but taxation probably will


BENROSS

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Mitsi Evo 7, 911, Cossie. & all the chavs ...... won no problem

hi graham, as above what stevieturbo says about the pump please check and fit a new gen gasket ...................... alas but my monies on this ................... *frown* on OEM gearbox to engine block gaskets the gasket which is for the O ring side, the OEM gasket does not cover the O ring ....so the O ring does its job sealing ..........but on no gen minispares after market gaskets.kit the gasket in question DOES cover the O ring causing this classic problem .............. i have pointed it out to the powers that be bud sadley it fell on deaf ears

all you need to do is relive aroud the circumfrence of the O ring gasket about 1mm so the O ring can do its job ............. a few members have had the same problem on here and many other forums and this was the same symptoms and the cause graham.

Edited by BENROSS on 26th Apr, 2015.






Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks



On 26th Apr, 2015 stevieturbo said:
Pump may not be bolted to block properly...


Correct, or rather the pump cannot bolt to the block properly. I’ve got a bit more investigation to do, but it appears that the drive “blade” on the pump is bottoming out inside the drive slot in the end of the cam. Certainly, without a gasket in place you can feel that the pump rocks on the drive blade.
All the oil was disappearing through the cam bearing and back into the block, hence we could not see what was happening without splitting the engine/ gearbox.
It was obviously not bad enough to affect pressure when running, but enough to drain the pump when not running.


This original pump is a standard 1275 oil pump.
I have a new Turbo pump which we have fitted and that seats properly. Now there is no evidence of oil leaking back through the cam bearing.
Very rough measuring gives ~0.5mm difference in the length of the oil pump drive blades, from mating surface of the oil pump to the top of the drive blade, the standard 1275 pump being the longer.
So now we are going to take a look and see if all is well with the cam fitment.






On 26th Apr, 2015 BENROSS said:
… on OEM gearbox to engine block gaskets the gasket which is for the O ring side, the OEM gasket does not cover the O ring ....so the O ring does its job sealing ..........but on no gen minispares after market gaskets.kit the gasket in question DOES cover the O ring causing this classic problem .............. i have pointed it out to the powers that be bud sadley it fell on deaf ears



This is also the case:








But….

I think this maybe the ultimate reason for no oil getting up to the pump:






What can it be???

Closer inspection:





Paper… Lots of mushed up paper.

At this point all I can surmise is that either the cam has moved (??) Or that this is how it was when originally built.
I guess this explains the reason why I have had so many issues with having to repeatedly prime the oil pump.
As stated originally, most of the engines running life was without driving it, so my guess would be that the paper was “whole” up until the point I did the test runs, so although I had a bitch of a job priming, once it was running, there was no issue with drawing the oil from the sump. Then after the test runs, the paper got mulched up and blocked the pickup filter. Maybe.

Anyhow, gearbox now to be stripped to get it cleaned out and timing cover whipped off to take a look at the cam. Then hopefully a running engine.


Edited by Graham T on 29th Apr, 2015.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


apbellamy

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Where's Rob Gavin when you need him.

On 11th Feb, 2015 robert said:
i tried putting soap on it , and heating it to brown , then slathered my new lube on it

*hehe!*


Rob Gavin

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Lol!


Sprocket

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Well with all that blue roll in thete it should at least be very clean *wink*

Edited by Sprocket on 30th Apr, 2015.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Tom Fenton
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I've said it before, that fucking blue paper roll is a menace!!


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


John

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Must double check for roll in my gearbox before engine goes together!

If something is worth doing, it's worth doing half of.


Rob Gavin

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I had to strip the box right down to get it all out; bearings were fine but it was all clogged up around the diff and particularly round the pick-up!

needless to say, I've been very careful building the engine for the metro!


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

This is sounding more and more expensive… if I have to pull the diff out, I’m going to have to fight off the urge to get an ATB.
*oh well*




On 30th Apr, 2015 Tom Fenton said:
I've said it before, that fucking blue paper roll is a menace!!


It may not have been blue paper roll. It’s the First time I’ve been inside this engine so I can’t comment on the colour of the paper in its previous form…

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Rob Gavin

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hahaha!


gr4h4m

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At least you never found out at 20psi

I run a supercharger and I don't care the TB is on the wrong side.
VEMS + 12 PSI + Liquid Intercooler = Small Bore FUN!


Rod S

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From previous discussions I have had with Graham (off-forum, mainly by email over our EFi setups) I know he has a billet cam (hence why our EFi setups are different as his cam timing is different).
I would guess the clearance issue on the drive dog forcing the oil pump not to seat properly is down to the way the slot has been cut in the cam rather than differences in the pump shafts between a 1275 and a turbo version, I'm sure Leyland would have left plenty of clearance on all their setups because of their wide range of manufacturing tolerances. Those who manufacture billet cams may be more concerned over the lobe profiles than such basic stuff as slot size/length.

There are other possibilities, like gasket thickness's, why the pump won't seat properly against a cam drive but there should be enough tolerance on OEM parts.

Probably worth checking the triangular thrust plate at the other end of the cam as lack of clearance on the drive dog could have pushed the cam hard against that bearing when the oil pump bolts were tightened.

On 30th Apr, 2015 Graham T said:
It may not have been blue paper roll. It’s the First time I’ve been inside this engine so I can’t comment on the colour of the paper in its previous form…

If you build it yourself you have only yourself to blame (sorry Rob) but if you source it elsewhere, it pays to look first as others have found out the hard way.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks



All the crap now out of the gearbox, everything clean ready to be put back together tomorrow.




On 1st May, 2015 Rod S said:


Probably worth checking the triangular thrust plate at the other end of the cam as lack of clearance on the drive dog could have pushed the cam hard against that bearing when the oil pump bolts were tightened.



I’ve not got a picture of the thrust plate bearing side, but that looked ok.



However…














This presumably is the result of little or no end float on the camshaft?


Luckily I found this early enough this afternoon to get a new thrust plate and load of shims for the crank sprocket on order for guarantied Saturday delivery (ouch!).

Once I have the parts I’ll check the end float and machine the sprocket collar as necessary.





On 30th Apr, 2015 gr4h4m said:
At least you never found out at 20psi





Ha, 20 psi. That would be nice. I only managed about 4.6Psi on the test runs, and to be fair that was disappointing.
Maybe due to the high ratio of the 1st gear in the clubman SCCR gear set and 2.9:1 final drive, but I’d like to think it’s down to the special self-cleaning gearbox modification and possible drag on the cam shaft – if that would even be an issue.

It was only down to my disappointment in the performance that this issue came up.
I reset the waste gate actuator and was attempting a second set of tests on slightly higher boost the following weekend, which was when I found I had no oil pressure, otherwise this would have been found on the way to the MOT.

Edited by Graham T on 1st May, 2015.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


D4VE

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Note to future self.... keep all blue roll/tissue away from engine building..

On 24th Oct, 2015 jonny f said:
Nothing gets past Dave lol

NOTHING GETS PAST ME!! *tongue*

1/4 mile 14.7 @ 96mph 12psi boost
Showdown class A 2nd place 18.6 @ 69mph


Rob Gavin

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Blue roll is fine when building. Just don't leave it in the engine


Sprocket

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On 1st May, 2015 Rod S said:
From previous discussions I have had with Graham (off-forum, mainly by email over our EFi setups) I know he has a billet cam (hence why our EFi setups are different as his cam timing is different).
I would guess the clearance issue on the drive dog forcing the oil pump not to seat properly is down to the way the slot has been cut in the cam rather than differences in the pump shafts between a 1275 and a turbo version, I'm sure Leyland would have left plenty of clearance on all their setups because of their wide range of manufacturing tolerances. Those who manufacture billet cams may be more concerned over the lobe profiles than such basic stuff as slot size/length.

There are other possibilities, like gasket thickness's, why the pump won't seat properly against a cam drive but there should be enough tolerance on OEM parts.

Probably worth checking the triangular thrust plate at the other end of the cam as lack of clearance on the drive dog could have pushed the cam hard against that bearing when the oil pump bolts were tightened.

On 30th Apr, 2015 Graham T said:
It may not have been blue paper roll. It’s the First time I’ve been inside this engine so I can’t comment on the colour of the paper in its previous form…

If you build it yourself you have only yourself to blame (sorry Rob) but if you source it elsewhere, it pays to look first as others have found out the hard way.


I concur about the thickness of the gasket between the front plate and block. The OEM gasket was very thick. It's been a while since I used a standard front plate so have no idea what is being supplied in gasket kits these days. This 'extra' dimension was something I had to take into consideration when designing the 16 valver engine seal plate that uses only a smear of RTV instead.

Edited by Sprocket on 1st May, 2015.

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Sprocket

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on a side note, thinking about it, the thikness of the front plate gasket could also alter the cam lob position in relation to the followers such that they may not rotate as they should?.................

On 26th Oct, 2004 TurboDave16v said:
Is it A-Series only? I think it should be...
So when some joey comes on here about how his 16v turbo vauxhall is great compared to ours, he can be given the 'bird'...


On 26th Oct, 2004 Tom Fenton said:
Yep I agree with TD........


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

I had 2 new Engine front plate gaskets in the gasket bin, one Payen which measures ~0.85mm thick and one from an FAI set, which measures ~0.44mm thick.





I could not measure the gasket that came off, but from the face that the oil pump seats on, to the face of the cam drive dog was 7.87mm before we took apart the front end of the engine.
Now that we have front plate back on and torqued down, with the thicker of the 2 gaskets installed and the old thrust plate temporarily in place, that depth has increased marginally to 8.15mm.

Not sure what the OEM gasket thickness would have been. How critical would the gasket thickness and therefore cam position on a factory build have been? ie did they worry about such things as follower rotation that much on the factory builds.



I never got the new cam thrust plate in time today to be able to do anything with it, but with the old thrust plate, I used some wet and dry on a flat surface to try to take the score marks off the front. I took about 0.04mm off and got most of the scoring off. Finished thickness being 2.29mm.
After installing on the front plate, I measure the depth from thrust plate face to the cam bearing surface and that too was 2.29mm.
From the cam sprocket collar face to the face of the cam sprocket step measures 2.11mm.
SO, if I have this right, it means interference of 0.18mm or more basically the cam sprocket would have been binding on the thrust plate.

I’ll redo all that tomorrow with the new thrust plate and see where that leaves me, but would this not have been evident in any way while the engine was running or more importantly, is there anything else that might have got fucked up as a result?



Gearbox ready to go back on the block



*happy*

Edited by Graham T on 2nd May, 2015.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Rob Gavin

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Lol!


D4VE

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Its a pitty the blue rolls dont come with that warning *happy*

On 24th Oct, 2015 jonny f said:
Nothing gets past Dave lol

NOTHING GETS PAST ME!! *tongue*

1/4 mile 14.7 @ 96mph 12psi boost
Showdown class A 2nd place 18.6 @ 69mph


Rod S

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Not sure which make is which from the photo but one of those gaskets if for an "A" and the other for an "Aplus".

I doubt that's the reason for the different thickness's, ie, I don't think Leyland would have changed that part of the specification but they are different because of the extra bolt on an "Aplus" assembly.


EDIT - just to add, most of the non-genuine gasket sets I've bought have had both versions in (as well as both versions of of the actual chain cover gasket) but I've never bothered to consider possible thickness differences, just the hole pattern.

Edited by Rod S on 2nd May, 2015.

Schrödinger's cat - so which one am I ???


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

Oh Bollocks...
The left hand one in the picture is the thicker one. I missed that extra bolt hole.

That's totally messed up my plan to get it running this weekend.

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675


Graham T

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Hungerford, Berks

Actually, I think that looking into it more, both the above gaskets are for the pre A+.
Certainly minispares sell the 12G619B, which looks identical in shape to the left hand gasket above and their description is “Front Plate Gasket Pre A+”
On the right hand gasket that extra bolt hole part of the gasket would not be necessary on an A+ because the casting is different: there is no block and therefore tapping behind to actually bolt into or seal onto.
The Pre A+ block I have here has a different shaped block and tapping for the bolt.

A+ front plate gasket


Regardless - Luckily, we found a sheet of gasket material, roughly the same thickness as the thicker of the 2 gaskets and so rather than wait until sometime next week for a gasket, I made one.

So, back on track…

The new thrust plate was 2.29mm, so I have tickled 0.3mm off of the cam sprocket step to increase it to 2.41mm.
After assembly we now have end float of 0.127mm (5 thou) rather than an interference of 0.18mm (7 Thou).
I also installed 5off shims, 0.13mm thick, on the crank to hold the sprocket out in the correct position.
Apart from aligning the cam sprockets correctly, it has also stopped the timing plate thingy on the inside of the Crank pulley from slowly eating a hole in the timing chain cover. Bonus.

I will have oil pressure tomorrow!!!!

’77 Clubman build thread
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=618189

Siamese 5 port EFI testing
http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=611675

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