Realized that I have enough mini turbo spare parts to think about doing a twini mini turbo build!
Turbo Mini Forums

How many people would or wouldn't ? Main concern, sychronisation of motors...

One thought would be to use a v8 edis...but would need to be very smart electronically ...poss mech connection

Other thought is to use feed back from one mega jolt to another? Or some sort of traction control sync ?

Rear gearbox, make up front selector shaft, easy enough with a link from remote, dual clutch cylinders etc. rear wheel drive force rear arms...

Obviously have to beef up the rear gearbox housing etc...

Thoughts welcome !

Poss run both turbos into common plenum / intercooler up front then back into both motors ?

Edited by Brocky on 22nd Sep, 2017.

BTW - I took my buddy VTEC Pete out for a spin this weekend, and even though I am running her in, he gave it a name, the "Brocket"...cause I'm a brocket maaannn, nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah nah....

Build thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=7483

Katy Mini Owners Club Thread - http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.php?p=vt&tid=505552

Let's make sure you embarrass at least one VTEC MINI today !

https://www.facebook.com/groups/17557298589...096464253807802

Im on the same project. Only thing scratching my head still is the link to the rear. I made some drawings but non are faultless to me. Been looking for info just last night!

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

We have a rear engined Nota Fang and solved the gearbox by using a rod change box. removed reverse gar and lengthened the selector so it comes out the front of the case. Solid mounting ours made sense as it's a hillclimb toy but for rd use you could use a uni joint to soak up the vibrations / misalignment. Looking at a rod change { the bit in the tunnel } iirc you can have a forward and a reward gear shaft. shift pattern in both boxes stays the same.

1977 Leyland mini Sunshine -- moleseted -- Named " Ray" becoming a 7 port efi slowly
1971 Nota Fang 145 bhp 5 port fun @ 450 kg
1969 Austin 1800 ute, 1800S running gear, tip rat and hardware store runner

If both engines where build the same they should run almost in sync as the will be basically controlled by throttle and wheel speed ......you won't have the rear donk doing 1k rpm more than the front with the wheels on the ground ......same diff ratio, same gear set, same drop gears = same crank speed at both ends.

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1977 Leyland mini Sunshine -- moleseted -- Named " Ray" becoming a 7 port efi slowly
1971 Nota Fang 145 bhp 5 port fun @ 450 kg
1969 Austin 1800 ute, 1800S running gear, tip rat and hardware store runner

you cant run froom one ecu unless the cranks are linked physically linked.

also you need to consider legality if its for the road, certainly in the uk you are not allowed to have two engines driving different axles and running, its only allowed as a "backup"

So that does work. I had that in mind but didn't see it passing trough. Also drawn a rod going underneath the box and then up by 3 gears so motion stays the same. Yours looks better.

you can do anything if you set your mind to it...
i rather blow it up winning than keep it together losing.

finish date set for project 1... march 2018

Although I'm using twin Suzuki motors the principle is the same as mini rod change boxes. I'm using a Daihatsu cable change to the rear box to make it easier.

Engines do not need to be synchronized and you can't run them off the same ECU. If anything you want the stronger engine at the rear.

Your common plenum idea is fraught with problems, but others have had gains by using the output of the front turbo on the rear and rear to the front. This means that if you get wheelspin on the front during launch or cornering then the rear end gets extra boost.

Good luck, and do it!

Just get another shell and build a track day weapon save all the heartache ......... my 2p

Outside the box