metro brakes
Turbo Mini Forums

as i uderstand it you can fit metro hubs and brakes as long as you change to pre 84 ball joints, it does however alter the track width by about 3/4 of an inch, apart from that there are no other issues?

From memory I think you need to fit negative camber bottom arms with this set up, to return the geometry to standard. If you don't do this you will get a lot of positive camber.

I have never personally done this, I'd always go down the mini-hubs route if at all possible. I have seen complete mini front brake setups going cheaper and cheaper on ebay these days, I can remember when £75 was the going rate, have seen them as low as £20 now.

I think your results Peter Re: stopping distances are to be somewhat expected, after all the leverage on the disc is still going to be the same as the 8.4" size remains. However, resistance to heat-induced fade under hard use surely would improve?

Edited by Tom Fenton on 25th Nov, 2005.

fuck the brakes , i lurve the charlotte church thing,drooll. can you make um a bit bigger ,double drool.lol.,
yes i'm sexist . but hey, someones got to.


carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

yup, i managed to get brake fade when i took my moms car to the riv run the other year. it was only a thou but running turbo brakes and they faded pretty badly just trying to keep up with people on the sunday afternoon run!

i have the metro set up yes use the pre 84 balljoints these are the right taper for the mini

the camber is set to + camber 1 deg positive if you stick with the mini btm standard arms

to correct this you need at least 1.5 deg negative arms or 2.5 available minispares or minisport

this then should give you 1/2 deg neg camber or 1.5 deg negative camber

the caster i think is....... 3.5 deg on the metro hubs giving you 1/2 deg more posative.

i may stand corrected on this though!

Have you tried these ???

http://www.mra-minis.co.uk/megabrakes.htm

Thanks
Kind Regards Martin

http://www.mra-minis.co.uk

Something that seems to have been missed here ???

Is that when you change to Metro hubs it is ESSENTIAL to change the steering arms (use the mini ones - drill to 10.2mm) so that you correct for the difference between the mini and metros steering rack position -

If not then you will get bump steer like no other !!!

11.2inch disc diameter for 13inch wheels -

http://www.mra-minis.co.uk/megabrakes.htm

Thanks
Kind Regards Martin

http://www.mra-minis.co.uk

they will go a treat with his new 10! wheels ,but he'll need 4" spacers to clear those overkill brakes,lol


carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

I'm running this setup at the mo with S disks, i've got the camber at about -0.4 and the castor at around -4, I had it feeling pretty good at one stage but at the mo it handles like crap, I need to sort the geometry properly and setup the cornerweights, also I think the rack isn't centralized.

I stuck them on due to the rate I was getting thru balljoints, a set every MOT, and reshim about 4 times a year, (you wouldn't belive the roads here!!) themetro ones have been in 2 years now with out any attention and are still fine, plus none of that shimming palarva,

I'd be interested to see the effect on geometry the metro hubs have as the balljoints are further apart and the KPI is different, also allegedly there is 2 types of metro hub, supposedly some of the very early ones had different geometry (pehaps the solid disk ones?)

I think fastcarl does titainium hubs with mini geomety and metro balljoints which would be the ideal solution, probably a bit out of my price range tho!!

Were you greasing the mini ball joints regularly? As that amount of wear does sound excessive?

yeah, every month or two, a bit more often might have helped, but i'm glad i swaped to metro hubs now, the joins are more expensive but now I just swap them out when they get sloppy (which they havent yet).

as i said the roads here are pretty shite, not only was i shagging out balljoints but i've knocked off the fuel line more than once, and even ended up airborne on a flat, straight B road at 40 mph!

is that minus castor?? sulely not.

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

oh yeah, forgot about speed bumps, i've got those square bolt down ones that are really angular up my road, bloody things.

and yep that should be +4 castor.

Hi,
So has is the concensus of opinion that the metro hub give postive camber and you should change to mini steering arms? If so would drum brake steering arms be ok?
Cheers,
Gavin. :)

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drum brake arms off mini are same as disk type,

carl

WWW.FORCE-RACING.CO.UK PLEASE CLICK HERE

Bat are you confusing steering and lower arms?

You need Mini steering arms fitted to the metro hubs to correct bump steer.

You also need negative camber bottom arms to correct the camber from positive to a touch negative.

im not 100% on this, but ive used metro hubs before and it was a right mission to get the car handling right. i think i ended up taking them off as the taper on the top and/or bottom ball joints is different to the top and/or bottom arms, which in my opinion is quite an importat factor as ive seen a few ball joints that have snaped/disintegrated.

anyone know if im talking out of my ass or not?

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

If using Metro hubs, you need to use Mk 1 metro balljoints, as these have the correct taper for use on Minis.

Personally I never have and never will use Metro hubs on a Mini.

Hi,
@ Tom, no mate someone in this post said change the steering arms as the metro rack is mounted in a different place, so metro arms on the mini cause bump steer problems, looking for clarification.............. Which you've kindly provided!
Cheers,
Gavin. :)

Edited by Bat on 7th Dec, 2005.

VEMs Authorised Installer / Re-seller. K head kits now available!

WB/EGT gauges. Click here for customers write-up

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