Fuel Gauge Problem???!!
Turbo Mini Forums

i have been having difficulties with my fuel gauge since i built the car some years ago but always had other things to sort out in life, as we all do..

right i have fitted a new Speedo clock the old copper S one,
the 130 mph just to brag in the local to some numpties, you know where iam coming from !!!

the gauge always wants to go read empty, even when the tanks half full or ¾.
on full it reads full.

right after 3 sender changes over a period of years, still the same happens?

right on removing the sender and adjusting, with a kink on the float support wire (no joy ) it reads full or nothing

1/ Having looked at the wiring diagram the tank sender is earthed

2 / directly from the tank sender the other wire goes directly to the back of the fuel gauge, from there to the voltage stabilizer.

from the stabilizer to a live wire from the fuse box.

Right my next step is to remove the dash and bell thing out etc.

As anyone ever come across anything like this.

I am suspecting I have the wires the wrong way round from the stabilizer to the fuel gauge?

All you comments would be welcome guys.

BEN:

Is your temperature gauge working correctly m8,
It could be the voltage stabiliser ... this supplies the temp gauge as well..( if you are using the standard type that is)

The way you have described it sounds correct to me. The voltage stabiliser provides a constant voltage to the meter. This is so that your fuel level does not fluctuate with the alternator charging the battery etc.
You can test this yourself with a multimeter, no matter what the battery voltage, the voltage across the output of the voltage reg to earth should stay the same.
I'd also bell the tank sender to earth to make sure this is low resistance.

Another good test is to check the resistance of your sender. Sometimes they can get dead spots in them, so with it off the car, rig up your meter and then sweep it slowly and gradually from one extreme to the other, make sure there are no dead spots.

t2 clubby the temp gauge did not work as well so this is a givaway !

sound advice tom

iam going to put this to bed tommorow

its just my luck to have a new U/S voltage stabaliser !

Hi Benross,
If it's the original type of stabiliser the male lucars (on the reg) go to the fuse box and the female to the guage. The stabilser is a bi-metallic item so you should get a pulsed output from it. If I remember correctly they're labelled B for batt and I for instruments, you'll need good eye sight to see that though!
Cheers,
Gavin. :)

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thanks bat i will have to get my better pair of specs out.

Right after an hour, found the problem!

i belled the wire out from the tank sender to the back of the fuel gauge this was ok good earth on the tank!

i have 12 v to the voltage stabilizer and 10 v out thats it !

like bat said i should get a pulsed signal (none at all)

the wires were coupled correctly! b from battery & i to instrument to the gauge.

so its the voltage stabilizer....... is US!

having volt tested my sons mini on the fuel tank sender wires
dis-couple, there is a pulsed signal ranging from 1.5v to 8v and this is constantly fluctuating.

here are 2 pics of the NEW! type of voltage stabilizer,

Gone are the days of bi metallic strips as you can see this ones got a transistor instead!

i believe that the stabilizer had a fault on from day one.

Right! my next question is where can i get one from guys!
ASAP.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Voltage-stabiliser-r...1QQcmdZViewItem

I prob got a bi metalic one out the garage

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

pm sent bri

Can't find it

SO BENROSS STILL WANT'S ONE

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

Hi,
@ Benross I would guess that the transistor one would give out a constant voltage, ie that's a voltage regulator on that PCB not a transistor. I know the later gauges are different, perhaps you've got the reg off that set on the older type gauges? Don't know for sure as I haven't seen a later setup.....
Cheers,
Gavin. :)

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WB/EGT gauges. Click here for customers write-up

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If you use a transister one,don't forget to earth the case on it

Metro turbo weekend driver,Mini turbo in the making again!

the case is earthed! & it was a complete new clock with the voltage reg attached solid state

i have 10v output constant but.... on my sons mini placing the meter on the wire to the tank sender i have a fluctuating voltage from 10 v to 1volts up and down??

i am going to get a new one and take it from there as it points to this
i would prefer to get hold of the old bi metallic one

can anyone help here ?

thanks

I also have a problem with my a fuel guage, when i fill it up it goes off the sclale, the after a few miles of driving it drops off the bottom of the scale :S. And in wet weather the petrol and temp guage both go off the scale! Im really confused :(

Rich

richi its the voltage stabalizer.

its playing up as you have read on the posts above
get a new one
heres a link!

scroll down to the btm of the page.

http://www.holden.co.uk/viewproducts.asp?s...=0611&pageno=4#

Cheers matey!

well heres the latest.

i have found out the old voltage stabilizers the bi metallic ones are a pulsed voltage

as we have talked about further up!

the solid state ones which may have come above the year 1988??
is a drop down voltage from 12+ volts from the battery to around 10v constant to the back of the fuel gauge.

well the conclusion is, in my case all three "OLD" fuel tank senders were Fooked!

the voltage stabilizer was working OK

all the wiring checked out with the meter

so i replaced the fuel tank sender for a new one!

the fuel gauge just moved, on investigation at the back of the fuel gauge there are two small grommets which when removed gives you access to MANUALLY trim the fuel gauge needle

one from empty to full and one from full to empty

by adjusting these with a known fuel level in the tank i was able to set the fuel gauge level spot on (job done)

Remember that these trimmers are quite stiff and take a bit of jiggling with.

Oh! This is with the large center clock type