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Home > Technical Chat > Copper fuel lines + steel body = corrosion? Fuel pump setup too

fortfun

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Fort Collins Colorado USA

Hi All,

New here. Working on a Garrett GT15-based setup for my Mini with Metro LE 1275 (12HC01AA code). At my 5000ft (1500m) elevation, it runs fine naturally aspirated on 87 octane ((R+M)/2, about 91RON). The premium fuel here is 91 (R+M)/2, about 95RON.

I've seen mention several times on this site of using copper tubing for fuel lines. Copper is certainly easy to handle and bend, but I am concerned about galvanic corrosion from contact with the steel body. Have any of you experienced that?

Also, I've been considering leaving my mechanical fuel pump in place and putting the electric pump and regulator under the bonnet after the mechanical pump. Figuring if the electric should quit on me, the mechanical can provide enough fuel to limp home as long as I stay off the boost.

I'm in the US, and don't have easy access to Metro bits, so this is coming together with aftermarket parts and welding. Will share some pictures as things gel.

1275 with Back Door Turbo


turbodave16v
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SouthPark, Colorado

I've never used copper - but not heard of any poblems either. Maybe it's because eveyone is using the correct rubber-lined steel P-clips to secue the lines to the body? Nice idea - but i doubt it LOL!

You can't leave the mechanical pump in place fullstop. You are clearly concerned about the reliability of electric pumps?
Well, in my younger years, I can think of three occasions when I've been let down by a mechanical pump in my various minis and metros... Once was a ruptured diapham, the other two times was the lever coming away fom the housing - usually the casting aound the lever pin failing.
I've never been let down by a bad electric fuel pump. If anything, these usually signal that something is amiss long befoe they fail with obvious audible cues...

Edited by turbodave16v on 24th Mar, 2006.

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MaltaMini

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Malta

I fI remember correctly from my Chemistry A Level, electrolytic corrosion will only ovvus if there is a significant difference in reactivity between the two metals. However, I cannot remember exactly how far iron and copper are from each other!

Being also a Land Rover fan, I know for sure that aluminium and iron are not best friends - hence the corrosion at the doorframes. However, as Dave suggested, using the correct rubber-lined P clips could do the trick. Since Mini fuel lines run under the car, consider sleeving the lines in some garden hosing...can buffer up some hits if you have a lowered Mini!

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turbodave16v
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On 24/03/2006 13:40:47 mini1071s said:

Look at the valency of the metals.....there will not be an problem.


Off to google what that means...*laughing*

On 17th Nov, 2014 Tom Fenton said:
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MaltaMini

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Malta

It basically means how much one element is capable of shedding electrons towards another element in order to become more stable. If one metal is strong and the other weak, the one will dump the electrons on the other - result to the non-Chemistry man is corrosion.

When does this happen? It's like havng two guys arm wrestling. If they're both strong guys, neither will have it his way. If one is stron and the other is weak (aluminium and iron) - the result is that of corrosion.

In CHemistry, the "srength" is defined by a list of metals in order of reactivity. Potassium is, for instance more reactve than sodium and will therefore be higher up in the list. Since Potassium and Sodium are next to each other on the list, they are both "strong men", and electrolysis won't happen. But Aluminium and Iron is a different story. Now if I manage to fish out my Chemistry textbooks, I'll see the relative posiion of iron and copper.

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fortfun

141 Posts
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Fort Collins Colorado USA

Electronegativity charts I found on the web, and pictures of copper to steel contact corrosion, indicate it is a problem.

1275 with Back Door Turbo


Tom Fenton
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I really wouldn't worry about it too much.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
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MaltaMini

193 Posts
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Malta

Use proper rubber-insulated P-clips, make sure that the paint's good, and you shouldn't have any problems.

You could always use braided hose for some extra pose value...

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Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
I've had a cooper fuel line under my car for 10 years now. Clamped directly to the body with steel clips, it's been through lots of winters, no problems!
Cheers,
Gavin :)
PS Oh yeh, Welcome to the forum *wink*

Edited by Bat on 25th Mar, 2006.

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