OIL TEMP PROBE FITTED! with engine in!!!
Turbo Mini Forums

am i blind ,all ican se is the rerar of the engine ,i cannot see the speedo housing,

carl

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Thank fook. I thought I was being stupid aswell.
I can see a turbocharger, and an inlet, and ......

phew! thought i was going crazy then

i love you guys.....................i was thinking i was thick as shti just like normal when i miss the boat LOL

I'M NOT ALONE! wayhay!

Best 1/4 mile 13.2 seconds @116 mph
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on a carb?
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on Injection?

http://www.mattwoodsphotography.com

I dont think its the same pic that was originally there!!

-MINI CLUBMAN 1380 TURBO-

Hi,
I thought it was a test for using your imagination.... Now I find out it's the wrong picture, it's took all the fun out of it :(
Cheers,
Gavin. :)

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here you go guys sorry for the delay, dont know where it whent to ??

sorry about the size of it

Edited by BENROSS on 31st Jan, 2006.

That's better, Nice one looks good :)

Best 1/4 mile 13.2 seconds @116 mph
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on a carb?
First 5 port miniturbo to make over 200 bhp on Injection?

http://www.mattwoodsphotography.com

ive just fiited a inline mocal oil temp sensor works well although ive got one of them crap rear mag oil trap and that would work bloody well to.

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas

I have an electric oil temp gauge and have fitted the sender to the oil feed pipe banjo bolt. There is a length of hexagon bar silver soldered to the std banjo bolt. This extension is then drilled / tapped to the sender thread.

i found when having one there jukka, in the cold weather the air from the grill affected the reading.

So you don't think that the cold air cooled your oil then?? :)

i doubt it very much! iain
as its insulated

the temprature deviation you referd to would be caused by mainley the sump chilling as well!
as this is a larger surface area than the probe fitting & insulated capiliary cable.

also iain that i susspect you have not got another probe and gauge to compare the two readings. to make a positive conclusion.

it could be so but not that much!

Maybe a shit idea, but has anyone thought of adding a 'visual' oil level check tube?

Like the ones you see on catch/fuel tanks?

If you welded a boss somewhere near the bottom of the g/box, then ran a transparent hose to a beather (or another boss further up the block) you could see by sight the oil level cold, warm, at tickover, high revs etc...

I know its a lot of work, and its another thing to go wrong, but it would put this oil level debate to bed...

Edited by joeybaby83 on 9th Feb, 2006.

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

Joe not much point! the sticks good enough IMO
for the Oil levell!!!.

the issue we have here is oil Temp in the sump.

yeah, was going back to the earlier suggestion that the oil level might drop when the engine was running, possible leaving the temp sensor high and dry...was thinking outloud really..

"Turbo's make torque, and torque makes fun"

"did you know you can toast potato waffles?"

I guess it was the cooling of the transfer tube but i got a significant increase when i shielded the sensor from the grill air.

Not very scientific! just an observation

right iain you have a point!

joey theres that much churning of oil in the box that the sender in this position will get a good soaking and give an even reading IMO

the engine oil ways continuous lubrication does does not come into the equation regarding levell
where the probe is sited

is the threads 3/8 BSP on the capilary tube itself or on the adaptor(HP8S) from minispares? it on the capilary tube itself, does anyone know the threads and size on the HP8S? its the same as the sump lug BTW.

EDIT: I have found the sump plug to be 5/8", but whats the thread? UNC?

Edited by miniminor63 on 23rd Mar, 2006.

i was thinking bout the idea of what size cooler to put on ,ben ,what temps are you getting ,may i ask ? and with what size of cooler ?
regards
robert .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

miniminor the gauge i got capilary was from the dreded deamon tweaks a race tec type, i think? ???????

cant check as the cars in storage at the moment

this was both 3/8"BSP male Barrel niple & the union 3/8" BSP thread as well.

whatever thread size gauge you get you can get taps etc

give minispares north a ring ask for richard he will tell you

with around 130..ish bhp the sump temps are around 40c with a 13 row cooler giving it full wellie.

i blanked all but.. 6 rows off with tape and the temp jumped up to around 60 c this is of course....

with no stat fitted!

which i would recommend, so you can deduce from there ivan.

my gutt feeling a small cooler say 5 or 6 rows with a stat is more than up to the job. for power levells up to 160 ish at ambient temp of 18c

its not to say that if you have a 13 row cooler that you have to replace this

just fit a 100c stat
the 13 row cooler could help things on i high power 200bhp track car on a hot day. with a stat as well.

you will know ivan the best sump temp for power is 100c

Edited by BENROSS on 24th Mar, 2006.

thanks ben ,i really appreciate that data ,i have a 6 row on it at the mo ,but i was a little worried that it seems to block flow when cold ,! the psi at cold is about 30 then as the engine warms up it rises to the 40 psi i set it at ,this with 20 /50 vr1 valvolene, so was considering a 13 i have just to let the cold oil flow more easily to the block ,of course ,it could just be a duff guage pipe with grese in it from priming etc !!also i was thinking that i d prob want to run a bit cooler than 100 ,not because i know for a fact thit its better than 100 but because i do deff know that the cooler i run the pistons and so on the less det happy itll be ,so taking the poss knock in power for the reliability ,and poss increased boost capability .
regards
robert.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM

you have a point ivan its swings & roundabouts

a “compromise is needed” say around 60 to 80c, 70 been optimum?

especially if you run undecrown cooling jets!

Been too cool or too hot in this case will result in power sapping or it could help take you into the dark side!

i stat is a must!

the flow issues you have ivan what pump do you run ????

Edited by BENROSS on 24th Mar, 2006.

thanks for asking ben ,its a turbo pump brand new ,psi with hot oil is 40 above 1500 about 20 at 700 rpm tickover ,so all ok there ,just v cold engine seems to gradually creep up from 25 to 40 as it warms up over 5 to 10 mins.i should stick on a diff guage at some point to eradicate that possibility ,but i think it was fine with metro turbo cooler ,just having the front mounted metro mk1 rad ,( yep ,the thick one ! ) makes space a bit diff.
regards
robert.

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM