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Home > Help Needed / General Tech Chat > Anopther misfiring problem, Megajolt

Turbo Tel

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I finally got the engine started again today after 6 months waiting for parts. All went well and it started first time. It idles fine and runs OK but when driving It gets into a bad misfire...

So as its megajolt I checked the sensor, replaced the coil, plugs and leads.

On the fuel side although I can sometimes see a little drop in the Fuel ratio on the wideband when its happening its not bad, 12:1 -13:1 sometimes lower but nowhere near the lean misfire area. The fuel pressure looks fine, rises with boost and does not drop off when the problem happens.

The only thing I see that worries me during the misfire is a wild fluctuation of the vacuum guage and a corresponding jumping around on the MJ map This usually happens off boost. when cruising. after a min or so it will clear then I can run boost with no probs for a while and the guage is steady, then it will start again.. I havew had this happen when free recvving the engine as well as inder load.

So whats going on here?? is the fluctuating vacuum guage a result of the misfire or the cause?? One thing that I did have done was a head job with new guides, the problem takes a little while to occur and everytime I do a test drive it seems to occur a little later in the trip, ( I keep thinking fixed it!!) could the valves be sticking??

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk


Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
Could be not enough clearance on the exhaust guides causing them to jam when warmed up, seems they need more clearance on a turbo engine :(
Check MAP sensor and pipework, inlet manifold etc before pulling the head off though!
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Turbo Tel

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I just let it heat up at idle for a while until the fan came on, and i am not getting any missfire free revving at all..It takes a few mins driving to make it miss.. I would expect a sticky valve to show itself at least once when I am at home!!

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk


robert

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uranus

could it be a lean backfire tel? do you still have the bimetalic strip holding the jet ?

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Turbo Tel

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On 27th Apr, 2008 robert said:
could it be a lean backfire tel? do you still have the bimetalic strip holding the jet ?


I do but its been OK for all of last year even in real high ambients.

Just did some googling and the lean misfire point is at AFR 16-17 Mine is nowhere near that when it starts. missfiring, when it starts the afr is normal and then slowly works its way to 15 or so, Apparently any missfire will give false lean readings because of unburned fuel and I suspect thats what I am seeing. Therefore I am not convinced its a fuelling problem..

That leaves ignition and compression.. I eliminated all ignition parts I could and it still could be ignition but on the compression side, standard sized manganese bronze guides were opened out by the machine shop and I'm worried that he did not open them enough and when I put any heat stress into them they start sticking.

Now I think of it the missfire only comes in after I have hit boost couple of times, It sticks around for a minute or so then clears and I can hit boost again and it will start to miss again.. I know that could also be fuel starvation but I should see lean AFR's as well..and I am not.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk


apalazz1275

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Could be fouled plugs. Try going to a hotter plug. Try shutting the engine down straight away while its missing and look at the plugs. This should give you a better indication of what it is doing? Maybe try closing the plug gap a little. :)

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Turbo Phil

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On 27th Apr, 2008 apalazz1275 said:
Could be fouled plugs. Try going to a hotter plug. Try shutting the engine down straight away while its missing and look at the plugs. This should give you a better indication of what it is doing? Maybe try closing the plug gap a little. :)


This is a possibility. Mine is a tad rich low down + very low intake temps, and if you have just driven through town only using very small throttle openings when you come to use full throttle it often gives a few big misfires. The lambda still shows rich when this happens.
A minute or two of progressively more throttle & the plugs have cleaned up, full throttle can be used and it doesn't misfire at all.

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Turbo Tel

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On 27th Apr, 2008 apalazz1275 said:
Could be fouled plugs. Try going to a hotter plug. Try shutting the engine down straight away while its missing and look at the plugs. This should give you a better indication of what it is doing? Maybe try closing the plug gap a little. :)


Brand new plugs and they look fine, I also closed ip the gap to .030 and reinstalled the old ones, no difference.

Thinking back I do remember some louder valvetrain noises at times, This is really starting to look like a sticky valve so Im not keen on running the engine!! But I may do one more run without letting it get into boost. if it does not get into a misfire that should tell me that heat may be causing the guides to bind.

I think I'll try take a peek into the chamber and look for any marks on the pistons, otherwise I recon the head will have to come off for my piece of mind.. But before I do that I will talk to the Machine shop.

Not having much luck with machine shops...



Terry

Edited by Turbo Tel on 27th Apr, 2008.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk


Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
Ask Benross what clearance he puts on his guides. I've not heard of any problems with his heads so that should give you an idea about whether you've got enough.
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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Turbo Phil

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I just run a 9/32 reamer through the guides on my heads.

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Turbo Tel

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On 27th Apr, 2008 Bat said:
Hi,
Ask Benross what clearance he puts on his guides. I've not heard of any problems with his heads so that should give you an idea about whether you've got enough.
Cheers,
Gavin :)


I asked Benross that exact question and gave his reply to the machine shop... Wonder if they read it!! -- 9/32 and 8mm if I remember correctly.

Whats worrying me is that as an excuse for not having it ready the guy said something about needing new "stones" for his guide reamer.. I'm wondering if he just reamed them till they loosened and didnt give enough clearance, hence me wanting to talk to him Monday..

Edited by Turbo Tel on 27th Apr, 2008.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk


Turbo Phil

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Stones for his reamer ? What kind of guide reamer's that then ?

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Turbo Tel

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On 27th Apr, 2008 Turbo Phil said:
Stones for his reamer ? What kind of guide reamer's that then ?


EXACTLY Phil!!

Anyway I dont know why I didn't think of this earlier but over the long winter of waiting I made an electronic stethoscope from a cheap radioshack listening box thing

http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...&tid=2563&fr=25

I drove the car . Its stereo and I had one channel on the front bolt for the valve cover the other on the back bolt


Just as the misfire starts the valvetrain sounds increased considerably, in fact I could hear something going on before I even was aware of a misfire. Sometimes the extra noise was in my right ear sometimes the left and sometimes in the middle so they are all sticking, if it got real bad it scared me and I backed off.. That bit of kit has already paid for itself..

Im now pretty sure the valves are sticking...Offf with its head!!

Edited by Turbo Tel on 28th Apr, 2008.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk


theoneeyedlizard

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Well done for diagnosing it before something catastrophic happened.

In the 13's at last!.. Just


Turbo Tel

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I just talked to the machine shop.

They gave it 1.5 thou on inlet 2 thou on exhaust.. Too tight yes??

I seem to remember 2 thou on inlet, 3 thou on exhaust, that sound right??

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk


Turbo Tel

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I'm telling you, If TM ever puts together a world championship engine stripping team, put me down for Captain.. I'm getting real good at this!!

Heads Off, No sign of any "kiss marks" on the pistons ...whew...

Edited by Turbo Tel on 28th Apr, 2008.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk


Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
Great that you've found the problem.
Your name's on the list *wink*
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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robert

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uranus

tel in case it helps , i ran a slightly worn reamer through the guides ,and think it was poss a bit tight when i had it on the dyno ,and ,at 6500,flat out against a slowly accelerating load , it went onto 3 or even 2 cylinders for 3 seconds ,then cleared , its been fine on the rd though . do you feel certain you have enough spring pressure for the cam profile ? id look for 90 on the seat and 185 to 195 on the nose to be sure of 7k rpm .

Medusa + injection = too much torque for the dyno ..https://youtu.be/qg5o0_tJxYM


Turbo Tel

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I don't plan to go up to 7k and its only a Kent 266 so nothing wild. Plus the springs were checked and were OK in the last 2 builds!!

Apparently the machine shop did use some kind of stone to hone the guides out to give 1.5 thou clearance, a bit tight with Bronze guides esp on the exhaust. Also I heard more than one guide clatter if I can believe the stereo sound effects! They are taking them out to 2 inlet and 3 exhaust for me, should have it back tomorrow ready for the weekend.

Terry




Edited by Turbo Tel on 1st May, 2008.

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk


turbo hogster

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stowmaket suffolk

defo exhaust guides sticking, i use a 9/32 reamer and has always been fine.

what they mean buy new stones may be the seat cutter, harden seat cutters use stones with a reamer on the end, its an all in one action

always looking for them bigger bunches of bannanas


Turbo Tel

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OK took it for a couple of runs today, no misfire all is well...

Well except for the water leak in the radiator from my crappy soldering..

website:- http://www.terryhunt.co.uk


petterb

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I also have a misfire problem with my megajolt, I can see on the computer thath suddenly the rpm readout goes crazy, I have tried different types of wires from the last one looks to me like it should do the job. can it be something else ? What kind of wires do you use; do they have to be individually shielded?

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matty

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Are the wires the right was round (continuity)? What size gap do you have between your sensor and wheel? Have you checked the voltage at the point of the misfire, as the VR sensors are very sensitive to low voltage.

I think the majority of people on here use 2 core screened cable (microphone cable).

You can do data logs, these are usually very good for fault finding sensing problems.

Edited by matty on 4th Jul, 2008.

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Bat

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Bermingum

Hi,
Twisted pair screened is what you want for cable, this is more commonly known as microphone cable.
Swarf on the end of the sensor, a hole worn in the end, too much clearance or trigger wheel run out can coause this problem...
Cheers,
Gavin :)

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turbominivanman

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Petterb.

Assuming you've got a VR sensor and that it's gapped to 0.8 mm, it could be a shielding issue or it could be the same problem I had with mty misfire which was associated with voltage fluctuation affecting the coil pack.

I sorted mine by teeing into the coilpack +12v supply wire at the coil (the middle wire) and fitting a Ford 20 mF Capacitor to the bolts that connect the coil pack to the car.

There's a thread on TM. Just search for Wasted Spark Starting Problem.

This assumes you're using a Ford coil pack. The capacitor is fitted to Fords using this coil pack. Escort, Orion etc.

If you're using a Peugot coilpack, this usually comes fitted on the car with a 3 mF capacitor for the same reason. You might end up fitting the Ford one though.

Richard.

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