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Ben.

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Formally Whyte_ben

Horndean, Hampshire

Hey guys,

Ive got a new shell coming soon, ive bought the paint.

But I still need to get somthing for the underside for rust prevention.

What's the best thing out there for this? I know quite a few people use wax oil, but ive heard from some that this isnt the best. But I have no idea what the alternatives are.

Thanks, Ben.

Edited by Ben. on 15th Sep, 2006.



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turbodave16v
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Waxoyl is the best stuff for closed cavities like the inside of sills. Properly done, little can touch it for rust prevention.

BUT some seem to believe that spraying it in wheel arches and the outside of sills will perform miracles. Big no.
In these areas you need a decent stonechip. Schultz is one recognised name - not sure about being the best though...

This is best applied over an already etch-primed (and in my opinion top-coated aswell finish. It can then be re-painted body colour and it'll look factory and be about as good as can be.

Back to the waxoyl - if you've used one gallon or less - you haven't done it properly if you want it to last years of british weather...
Last mini I did, I used just short of 1 3/4 gallons.

Drill a few extra holes in the a-pillars and sills to make it easier.

Edited by turbodave16v on 15th Sep, 2006.

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turbochargedstu

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hammerite do an underseal which imho is the business!

balls to the blower!!!



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Brocky

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On 15/09/2006 01:06:42 TurboDave said:

Waxoyl is the best stuff for closed cavities like the inside of sills. Properly done, little can touch it for rust prevention.

BUT some seem to believe that spraying it in wheel arches and the outside of sills will perform miracles. Big no.
In these areas you need a decent stonechip. Schultz is one recognised name - not sure about being the best though...

This is best applied over an already etch-primed (and in my opinion top-coated aswell finish. It can then be re-painted body colour and it'll look factory and be about as good as can be.

Back to the waxoyl - if you've used one gallon or less - you haven't done it properly if you want it to last years of british weather...
Last mini I did, I used just short of 1 3/4 gallons.

Drill a few extra holes in the a-pillars and sills to make it easier.


I couldn't agree more, I've aquired cars before that seem to rot from the inside out !
Wax oil do a small probe tube to get into those awkward internal areas, for use with the pressure sprayer kit.

I have bored holes 4 - 5 8mm holes along the length of my inner sills to aid access also.

Its also worth IMO wax oiling under all the window and door seals as these can often trap water, especially around the lower part of the back side windows and lower front screen.

My underside (on the car that is !) and arches are etch primed and stone chipped followed by colour matched 2 pac.

Wax oil also do an under seal with wax oil in it too if you don't mind a black under side.

A good clean and inspection of the underside will help you keep on top of things, especially before and after winter, to catch anything before it starts.

At the end of the day, unless you keep it in a heated garage, its gonna rust.

Some people I know have been looking into high zinc content primers (95%), to act a kind of galvanising.

Cheers

Brocky

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T3Tone

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Sunny suffolk

If you have a compressor i brought an underseal gun from machine mart that comes with a very handy flexible tube which gives off five fine sprays, ideal to get in all the awkward to reach places.

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Ben.

628 Posts
Member #: 1064
Formally Whyte_ben

Horndean, Hampshire

On 15/09/2006 09:54:02 Brocky said:

Some people I know have been looking into high zinc content primers (95%), to act a kind of galvanising.

Cheers

Brocky



I was at my local paint supplier and he told me they had that zinc based primer. Apparently they sell it to a lorry company, that spray the lorry chasis with.

My shell comes in primer allready, other wise I would have used this too.

Thanks foir the help anyway guys, more opinions welcome. *happy*



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BENROSS

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my thoughts are the same as turbo daves






clubminiflip

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nr coventry

as turbo-dave says drill holes and inject lots of waxoil into all box sections, a tip i had ages ago was if using a new shell apply seam sealer to all the panal joints specialy at the front & rear & paint over with your body colour, also squirt lots of copper grease into the holes where the subframe bolts on the back as much as possible,

i have put 4ltrs of waxoil into & onto my car, if the underside is to be left bodycolour spray the underside with clear waxoil, then year after year jetwash the underside & re-apply each time, keep the car clean & wax it once a week & she should be ok!!!!

just be super obbsessive about rust prevention!

Edited by clubminiflip on 15th Sep, 2006.

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jamesfawcett

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Ive drilled 4 holes and filled my sills and also all inside the rear door pockets, pouring down into the sills. ive put laods of waxoyl in and then loads of old engien oil Where do you drill on the a pillars dave? thankyou :)

Edited by jamesfawcett on 15th Sep, 2006.

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Sprocket

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No need to put as much as 1.75 gallons of the stuff on all at one time. Buy a 2litre tin every year and do it peranial that way it youll get a nice even thick coat in the sills, instead of a THICK layer at the bottom and a not so thick layer on the parts its run off when still wet.

Places to make sure are well coated - rear valence closing panels, scuttle panels, accessable fron under the bonnet *wink* and inside door bottoms. Sills every one knows and does, but few do the others

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Nic

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Herefordshire

im finding on my car that seam sealer appears to be the devils product

i presume its because my car never used to be used in the week, so water from rain/cleaning it would get between the joins and get trapped between the panels

worth bearing in mind if you have a car that doesnt get used often, and dont mind a few leaks coming in the car


clubminiflip

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i've drilled a 6mm hole at the top of my A post & another between the door hinges for the a posts, drilled a hole in the box at the back of the rear pocket under the trim for the subframe mounting bold area you gan squirt grease in there too! As sprocket says the rear valance closing panels, drilled a small hole and put plenty in those, scuttle is extremely importent & access from the bonnet area is easy enough! pay attention to all the seams/joints of panels, i find its better to brush waxoild on to outer joints as you can work it in well with a brush, take you bumpers off, do the insides of your bumper & the flanges they mount to top & bottom, anything screwed to your car, take each screw out dip it in waxoil then screw it in as it'll protect the screw & hole, make sure you do inside the boot i.e the hinge panel, behind the fuel tank & where the arch meets the rear quater body panals, the battery box is worth cleaning out & waxoiling, the insides of headlamp rings, your doors, make sure when you do your doors replace the pastic protective sheet that goes between the door & door card, if you have'nt got them! make the sheet out of polythene and tape it in place with duct tape, i've probobly missed a few bits so please add anyone! hope this helps though! Any holes you drill, touch the edges in with topcoat paint & put waxoil on a rubber grommet and push these in & wipe of any exess waxoil cheers

Edited by clubminiflip on 15th Sep, 2006.

SKYLINES ARE LIKE CLITS, EVERY FLANGE SEEMS TO HAVE ONE: see this sticker on my silvia

the Search-section on this forum is blummin superb & simple to use, unlike some other forums, without the search-section & the help of this bunch of chaps on here i'll never be able to !!!Start the day with a 998cc turbo!!! :) i'm getting closer though!

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Graeme

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Southampton

Just a few more questions...

I managed to get my car onto its side today, resting nicely on a matress. Ive started to strip the paint/rust back to bare metal with a 4" twist knot wire brush on my angle grinder.

I've been using zinc primer ('davids' Zinc 182), should I be using etch primer instead of/aswell as. I'm unsure exactly what etch primer is or what it does?

I've been using spray cans so far, and I think Im going to get through a fair few, which is going to be costly. I have a compressor but its a piddly 'Clarke Jumbo' (3.5cfm) so I don't think its really up to the job, is it? Plus Ive only ever sprayed with cans before. How wrong get I get it if i just use the compressor for priming?

Any advice welcome on the above. Cheers.

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