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dan187

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Wootton Bassett

I've been driving my mini on my hour commute to work and am starting to pick out all sorts of problems with it now.

My biggest worry at the moment is that it is over-steering (quite badly).
It seems worse when I take a right-hand bend rather than a left.

At the rear I'm running standard shocks, cones, arms and mounting brackets with alloy finned drums, 30mm extra spacer each side and 12x6 superlites with 165/60/12 A510 tyres and pressure 29 psi all round.

The car is fine on sweeping bends but if I want to turn tight it feels as if there is some elasticity in the rear, almost as if i have a flat tyre (which i don't) and the side wall of the wheel is giving me some spring back.

I'm off to combe on Sept 10th and then again for the mini day on 24th so would like to get it sorted so i can stay on the track

Any suggestions or anyone local got a tracking set they can come round with to help me check it all out?


Thanks
Dan

Edited by dan187 on 25th Aug, 2011.

1275 N/A Sprite, 998 T2 Turbo Mayfair
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adamt

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Rhoose, Cardiff

I had this same problem with my 12x6 wheels. This year i span out on a motorway slip road in France on the way to the imm and ended up facing oncoming traffic. Bit of a brown trouser moment!

With those wheels and those tyres there is some slight stretch on them, meaning the sidewalls have little give in them. When you push it round bends the tyre wont deform much to aid grip instead the back end will break free and it usually doesn't give much warning.

I have now gone back to 10" wheels and the larger tyre is definitely better for handling and grip.

My project Toyota powered mini: http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=470448&fr=0


dan187

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Wootton Bassett

see now i get the opposite, I have lots of warning. It feels like there is loads of sidewall give and so i get a spongy back end feel that tells me when i'm pushing it too far.

1275 N/A Sprite, 998 T2 Turbo Mayfair
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wil_h

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Betwix Harrogate and York

6x12s are by far the best handling combination I have ever had on a road mini. 30mm spacers seems a lot. I generally run 5mm more on the rear, which really helps with oversteer and stability.

anyway, I would try the following:

1) check that the front is not sat on the bumpstops, and is at least 5mm clear.
2) that the cornerweights are set evenly.
3) that the rear toe is equal and in.

Do you find that you need very little steering input?

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph



On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


adamt

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Rhoose, Cardiff

i don't know then. maybe try a bit of negative camber on the back

My project Toyota powered mini: http://www.turbominis.co.uk/forums/index.p...tid=470448&fr=0


dan187

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Wootton Bassett

On 25th Aug, 2011 wil_h said:
6x12s are by far the best handling combination I have ever had on a road mini. 30mm spacers seems a lot. I generally run 5mm more on the rear, which really helps with oversteer and stability.

anyway, I would try the following:

1) check that the front is not sat on the bumpstops, and is at least 5mm clear.
2) that the cornerweights are set evenly.
3) that the rear toe is equal and in.

Do you find that you need very little steering input?


Thanks for reply Wil, I'll have a look at point 1) asap.

The 30mm spacer was purely for aesthetics to make the wheels fit the arches nicely. I'll take a bit out.

Yeah, very little steering provides more than enough for most corners.


corner weights and rear toe however I could do with some help on...

With the standard brackets etc, is there much i can do to change the rear geometry? I can shim to give more toe out but can't gain toe in? What brand brackets are best to allow changes? I'm looking at getting minispares MS73 to allow full changes.
Might it be that the subframe is mounted on the piss? Will having adjustable toe and camber irradicate the problems of the subframe being wonkey?

I live near Somerford Minis, so i could take it to them but i don't want to end up paying lots for them to just tell what geometry feature is wrong but then not be able to adjust it to make it correct.

Edited by dan187 on 25th Aug, 2011.

1275 N/A Sprite, 998 T2 Turbo Mayfair
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wil_h

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Betwix Harrogate and York

Other than corner weights you can get a rough idea with string and a ruler.

Google ;home suspension setings' or some thing, lots of ways.

Low steering input could well be the front then.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph



On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Anton

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Staffordshire

i had a similar issue... with the rear of the estate. Found to be toe-in on one side and toe-out the other.


icklemini

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Northampton

probably a toe issue on the back - one side will be 'in', one side 'out'....


Rob Gavin

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I assume you've checked there is no play in the radius arms? I've seen some horendously worn arms in the past that have caused this.

other than that, as already noted, get the geometry set. Keith T just has some similar issues with the mk1 and it was the toe settings


dan187

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Wootton Bassett

Thanks chaps.

Yeah checked for arm play, was pretty rigid.

I've forked out for minispares adjustable camber and toe brackets. So i'll get them fitted and find a good alignment centre

1275 N/A Sprite, 998 T2 Turbo Mayfair
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Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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How rigid was it, was it moving through its arc as it should? A seized radius arm basically gives solid rear suspension which isn't good for handling.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


dan187

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Wootton Bassett

Looking at previous posts i've opted for the following settings. It will be used as a road going track and hill climb car (currently my daily drive).

Front
-1 degree camber (I have the standard fixed lower arms I believe that is the camber offered?)
5 degree castor
1 mm toe out

Rear
-0.5 degree camber
2 mm toe in

Edited by dan187 on 26th Aug, 2011.

1275 N/A Sprite, 998 T2 Turbo Mayfair
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Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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Much more front negative camber required.


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


dan187

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Wootton Bassett

On 26th Aug, 2011 Tom Fenton said:
How rigid was it, was it moving through its arc as it should? A seized radius arm basically gives solid rear suspension which isn't good for handling.


Thanks Tom

About a month ago they were both seized. Fixed that and now they pivot lovely. I meant there is no play in planes where it shouldn't be.

1275 N/A Sprite, 998 T2 Turbo Mayfair
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dan187

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Wootton Bassett


On 26th Aug, 2011 Tom Fenton said:
Much more front negative camber required.


Can I adjust that without buying new arms?
Do you say that because of my intended use or other reasons?

1275 N/A Sprite, 998 T2 Turbo Mayfair
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Tom Fenton
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Fearless Tom Fenton, Avon Park 2007 & 2008 class D winner

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You will need other arms. 1 deg neg isn't enough in general for a hard driven Mini. Aim for 2 degrees or 2.5 deg


On 29th Nov, 2016 madmk1 said:


On 28th Nov, 2016 Rob Gavin said:
I refuse to pay for anything else


Like fuel 😂😂


wil_h

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Betwix Harrogate and York

I disagree with Tom. -1 will be enough IMO, 1.5 a maximum.

Although I run crossplys, I run -0.5 on the front, radials will want more camber, but -2.5 will just ruin traction.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph



On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Carlzilla

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Quarry Bonk

I run around -1.5 from my tracking report, and that's just from the car being lower, i find it about spot on :)

On 26th Jan, 2012 Tom Fenton said:
ring problems are down to wear or abuse but although annoying it isn't a show stopper

On 5th Aug, 2014 madmk1 said:
Shit the bed! I had snapped the end of my shaft off!!

17.213 @ 71mph, 64bhp n/a (Old Engine)


dan187

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Wootton Bassett

Thanks for all your inputs guys...

For now i'm going to stick with the standards arms due to the cost of new ones. I have lowered the front some so hopefully I will have between -1 and -1.5
I'll see how i get on with that and consider changing the arms in the future if needs be.

1275 N/A Sprite, 998 T2 Turbo Mayfair
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Vegard

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Norway

On my race Mini running 6X12 or 7X12 with 48Rs I use approx 2 neg at the front and very little toe out. At the rear Approx 1,5deg neg and 5mm toe out. I'd guess if you set the rears parallel it'll make a very stable ride. Toe settings are MUCH more important than the camber.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



wil_h

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Betwix Harrogate and York

5mm toe out at the rear, truly bonkers.

Not that I recommend it to anyone, I actually have 6mm toe in on the rear of the hillclimber. there are number of reasons for this but mainly it's because I like it and it suits my 'chuck it in style'.


On 29th Aug, 2011 Vegard said:
On my race Mini running 6X12 or 7X12 with 48Rs I use approx 2 neg at the front and very little toe out. At the rear Approx 1,5deg neg and 5mm toe out. I'd guess if you set the rears parallel it'll make a very stable ride. Toe settings are MUCH more important than the camber.

Fastest 998 mini in the world? 13.05 1/4 mile 106mph



On 2nd Jan, 2013 fastcarl said:

the design shows a distinct lack of imagination,
talk about starting off with a clean sheet of paper, then not bothering to fucking draw on it,lol

On 20th Apr, 2012 Paul S said:
I'm mainly concerned about swirl in the runners caused by the tangential entry.


Vegard

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I pick holes in everything..

Chief ancient post excavator

Norway

I chucked mine in on saturday. Result? A spin *happy*

I wouldn't reccomend this on a roadcar, but it works well on a circuit racer.

On 13th Jul, 2012 Ben H said:
Mine gets in the way a bit, but only when it is up. If it is down it does not cause a problem.



dan187

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Wootton Bassett

All set up now and runs much better. Feels like a mini and sticks to the corners. Rather than making me crap myself because i can feel the back end coming round.

Thanks all

Edited by dan187 on 30th Aug, 2011.

1275 N/A Sprite, 998 T2 Turbo Mayfair
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Ben H

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Melton Mowbray, Pie Country

Good news, and more proof that the 10", 12", 13" argument is not about the size, buit the way you use it.

http://www.twin-turbo.co.uk
http://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/default.asp

A man without a project is like a like a woman without a shopping list.

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